| Guam, USA, is an unincorporated territory of the United States. The southern-most and largest island in the Marianas chain, Guam is about seven hours by air from Hawaii. At 240 square miles, Guam is by no means a tiny island. Guam was first seen by Europeans in 1521 when Magellan sailed into Umatac Bay. He first named the island "Isle of the Lateen Sails" due to the shape of the native canoe sails. However, after the native people, the Chamorros, had resupplied the Spanish, the local people went out to Magellan's ships. In the typical island fashion of reciprocity, the Chamorros took whatever they wanted. Magellan's men opened fire on the "savages", and Magellan renamed Guam the "Isle of Thieves". The Spanish conquest would last nearly 300 years, and was characterized by a dedicated campaign to wipe out the Chamorro culture. Click the map below for a larger version! |
| Guam was then seized by the U.S. during the 1898 Spanish-American War. The U.S. colonial period was not perfect by any means. But it was marked by improvement in the schools and general island economy. Like most colonial powers, the U.S. claimed whatever land it wanted, usually for military means. However, the Chamorro people, teetering on the brink of cultural extinction under Spain, were able to begin a long recovery (for example, it was no longer a crime to speak Chamorro). The Japanese period came suddenly with the beginning of World War II. It lasted from late 1941 until mid-1944, and saw great oppression. With the return of the United States and the post-war growth in American sensibilities about civil rights, Guam eventually passed to a democratically-elected government. A referendum saw the Guamanian Chamorros vote to remain a U.S. territory, and not join with the northern islands in the Commonwealth of Northern Marianas Islands. For the first time since 1521, the Chamorros were deciding their own destiny. Geologically, Guam can be described as two islands that went and met in the middle. The northern half is terraced coral plateaus; the southern half consists of volcanic mountains and steep terrain. The island is covered with thick foliage, and boasts hidden jungle waterfalls and grand, sweeping vistas. Even during the dry season, Guam is often bathed by passing tropical showers, keeping it lush and green. |
| Above: Seen through a frame of coconut palms, the Southern Ridge of Guam reaches skyward. After you've toured these sharp peaks, head north to Guam's terraced coral plateaus. |
| The most enduring symbol of Chamorro culture is the Latte stone (pronounced "lat-tee"). Made of coral rock, these stones were the foundation pillars of the ancient Chamorros' houses. These Latte stones are made up of a haligi (shaft stone) and a tasa (capstone). They would be set up in two rows of from six on up to even 20 pillars! The floor of the house would lay across the top of the stones. The biggest Latte stones in the Marianas were quarried on Rota (the island north of Guam) and set up on Tinian. It is believed that the larger the stones, the higher in the social strata that family was. |
| The stones in the image above are currently located in the Senator Angel Santos Latte Stone park in Hagatna. Originally found in Me'pu in the south, they were moved to the park, restored, and set up for display. Click the image above for a larger view of these stones). August 2003. The Latte in the images at right are displayed on the grounds of the Ricardo J. Bordallo Governor's Complex at Adelup Point, south of Hagatna. Click the upper right image for a closer look. Dex. 2004. |
| Most Latte stones on Guam are found out in the jungle. Time and weather have toppled most of the tasa from their haligi, such as these (above) that I'm posing with at Haputo Beach on board NCTS (a Navy facility). The Haputo site also boasts one of the larger intact Latte stones on island (right). To give you an idea of its size, my friend Tim, who is a man of average height, stands with it. |
| The Latte site at Haputo is accessible only if one can get access to the Navy base. For the general public, Gun Beach in Tumon is easily visited (left). This site contains the remains of a house, and is maintained by a local Boy Scout troop. Because the ancients used natural material, and often did not dress it very much, it is easy to overlook a Latte site in the dense jungle growth. Given some experience, though, and you'll learn to spot them. |
| Although the traditional Chamorro dances may resemble hula, it is not. While the styles of dance are very similar between the islands, each culture has its own signature, and incorporates many influences. |
| Above Right: Tarague Beach (located on Andersen AFB) lies below 300 foot-high cliffs, and shows the stepped coral plateaus to great effect. Click both images above to see larger versions of these photographs. |
